London's Architecture in 1900: Quaint Buildings

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Arthur H. Beavan continued his look at quaint buildings in Imperial London, published in 1901:

For old buildings other than taverns, etc, we must take Holborn first, with its delightful row of overhanging houses that are the frontage of Staple Inn.

Wych Street was in 1900 full of such, and Holywell Street (what was left of it), in a lesser degree.

On the west side of Fetter Lane were several crazy tenements in any of which might have dwelt the infamous Mother Brownrigg, who starved and beat her servant to death in the Lane, and was duly hanged.

Opposite the Law Courts was a shop over which were the remains of old projecting windows; and further west on the opposite side near the Adelphi Theatre were several quite old houses with modern shops below.

In Fleet Street, near the Law Courts, No.17, a house of plain Jacobean design and age, and erroneously known as Wolsey's Palace, had luckily been preserved to us in the process of widening Fleet Street.

There was a quaint little shop and dwelling-house at No. 82, Norton Folgate, and close by in Spital Square were several old houses, and a few outside St. Giles', Cripplegate.

In Soho were many picturesque and gabled old tenements, particularly round about Soho Square. Of the few almshouses yet remaining, those of the Frame-Work Knitters' Company, and the Ironmongers' Company in Kingsland Road, were old enough.

In the Mile End Road were the Trinity Almshouses for poor disabled seamen, their widows, and orphans, a quaint old place with a curious chapel at the end and flagstaff in the centre of the quadrangle.

Kensington Square, Kensington, had some delightful old mansions; and there were a few, very few, in Cheyne Walk (east and west), Chelsea.

Hanover Square brought back the Georgian period; and Queen Anne's Gate was thoroughly suggestive of that good Sovereign's reign - the days when links were carried, and extinguishers outside the houses were essential, which said links were made of iron, hollowed, and filled with pitch, and with an inch of tow at the top, so that when set alight they could with difficulty be blown out.

Interesting London nooks and corners had to be pertinaciously looked for, and when found, made a note of, but more often than not they were stumbled upon accidentally.

As the pleasure consisted in finding them unaided, I must not give them away, but will instance only a few.

Out of Carter Lane, E.C., was a narrow passage that led to Wardrobe Place, a curious out-of-the-world little spot wherein a few trees bravely struggled to keep alive.

Amen Court, where the canons of St Paul resided, was a delightful nook at the termination of Amen Corner.

Off Fetter Lane on the east side, nearly half-way up, was a narrow passage that led into Nevill's Court.

This was one of the quaintest bits in the City.

On each side were old gabled houses with small-paned windows, and doors very much like those of country cottages, with gardens in front where, in the heart of London, flowers actually grew, though they might not flourish.

Opposite the Law Courts in the Strand was Thanet Court, that would certainly be overlooked by any passer-by not previously aware of its existence.

In a moment one passed from the roar of Fleet Street and the Strand into the dead silence of this narrow paved cul-de-sac; on each side were two-storied houses all alike, most of them with brass door-plates highly polished, and with cards for lodgers in the spotless windows shaded with the whitest of curtains; everything was cleaned and rubbed to the utmost pitch of brilliancy; you might dine on the flagstones; even the iron gratings glittered with blacklead; and the solitary lamp-post in the middle of the court was as fresh-looking as paint could make it.

Barnard's Inn of Holborn was a nook; so was Fen Court, Fenchurch Street; and, off Fenchurch Street, Star Alley, where the tower of St. Mary Steyning was all that was left of a very ancient church.

Muscovy Court, Tower Hill, was another quaint bit, and so was Trinity Place close by.

In Fleet Street, one might take any of the courts; they were all curious - Bolt Court, Wine Office Court, Johnson's Court, etc.

Up Chancery Lane on the north side were Bishop's Court and Chichester Rents; and there was a veritable find in Clement's Inn through the gateway in Fetter Lane; also in Staple Inn with its picturesque entrance from Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane; and between Bedfordbury and St. Martin's Lane was Goodwin Court, very quaint.

Next: 1900 London: Haunted Houses