Trafalgar Square: St Martin's-in-the-Fields

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Sir Walter Besant, in The Fascination of London, published in 1903, continues his survey of Trafalgar Square with a look at St Martin's-in-the-Fields:

St. Martin's Church was founded by Henry VIII, who disliked to see the funerals of the inhabitants passing through Whitehall on their way to St. Margaret's, Westminster, but there had probably been an ecclesiastical building on or near this site from a very early date.

In 1222 there was a controversy between the Bishop of London and the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's on the one hand and the Abbot and Canons of Westminster on the other, as to the exemption of the chapel and convent of the latter from the jurisdiction of the former.

The matter was settled in favour of Westminster. It is probable that this chapel was for the use of the monks when they visited their convent garden.

In 1721 the old church was pulled down, and a new one built from the designs of Gibbs the architect, whose bust stands in the building near the entrance.

A rate was levied on the parish for expenses, but money poured in so liberally that a gift of £500 toward the enrichment of the altar was declined.

The building has been derided, but it has the merit of a bold conception.

Ralph in "Publick Buildings" says: "The portico is at once elegant and august, and the steeple above it ought to be considered one of the most tolerable in town.

The east end is remarkably elegant, and very justly challenges a particular applause; in short, if there is anything wanting in this fabric, it is a little more elevation."

The only original features in the interior are the two royal pews, not now used, which look down on the altar.

St. Martin's is the royal parish, including in its boundaries Buckingham Palace and St. James's, but the births of the Royal Family are not registered here, as has been frequently stated.

There is no monument in the church of any intrinsic interest, and the only other noticeable details are two beautiful mosaic panels on either side of the chancel, put up by Lady Frederick Cavendish to the memory of her husband.

Among the names of those buried in the old church is that of Vansomer, a portrait-painter.

Nell Gwynne, Roubiliac, and Jack Sheppard - whose first theft took place at Rummer's Tavern, near Charing Cross - lie in the burial-ground.

There is a large crypt, with vaulted roof, below the church, and here are several monuments from the old building, and also the ancient whipping-post.

Next: St Martin's Churchyard